If there is something we learned by visiting the Cinque Terre, it is this:
Do not wait until a perfect “someday” to see the world, because both you and the world keep changing.
You may not get a second chance.
Odd way to start a travel post? Yes. But something unforeseen happened in Vernazza just a few weeks after Sam and I visited in July.
On October 25, devastating mudslides carried tons of mud and rocks and dirty water into the towns of the Cinque Terre. Especially hard-hit was the village of Vernazza, where we had stayed at Rosson Teresa B&B. Rick Steves has kept his readers abreast of the mudslides and posted before-and-after pictures on his website titled “Vernazza in the Aftermath.” Even if you have never been here, you can see the terrible damage done to Vernazza in his pictures. Vernazza was completely evacuated in November. Hiking trail #2, between Monterosso and Vernazza, pictured below, was destroyed. Almost everybody in town lost their cars, which were swept out to sea.
It will cost more than 133 million dollars to restore Vernazza.
Still, many businesses in Vernazza plan to be open for the summer 2012 tourist season. You can find out which ones if you visit “SaveVernazza” online.
So please let me share our visit with you as though Vernazza were still there, sparkling in the sun, waiting for you. Which, I guess, she is.
Do not wait until a perfect “someday” to see the world, because both you and the world keep changing.
You may not get a second chance.
Odd way to start a travel post? Yes. But something unforeseen happened in Vernazza just a few weeks after Sam and I visited in July.
On October 25, devastating mudslides carried tons of mud and rocks and dirty water into the towns of the Cinque Terre. Especially hard-hit was the village of Vernazza, where we had stayed at Rosson Teresa B&B. Rick Steves has kept his readers abreast of the mudslides and posted before-and-after pictures on his website titled “Vernazza in the Aftermath.” Even if you have never been here, you can see the terrible damage done to Vernazza in his pictures. Vernazza was completely evacuated in November. Hiking trail #2, between Monterosso and Vernazza, pictured below, was destroyed. Almost everybody in town lost their cars, which were swept out to sea.
It will cost more than 133 million dollars to restore Vernazza.
Still, many businesses in Vernazza plan to be open for the summer 2012 tourist season. You can find out which ones if you visit “SaveVernazza” online.
So please let me share our visit with you as though Vernazza were still there, sparkling in the sun, waiting for you. Which, I guess, she is.
So what and where, exactly, is the Cinque Terre?
The Cinque Terre is a strip of land, less than 12 miles long, along the west coast of Italy that is home to five small fishing villages: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. The villages are linked by hiking trails, which is a big draw for people who like exercise, fresh air, and breathtaking views. The nature trails along the coast are steep, rocky, and peppered with glimpses into private vineyards. Beaches beckon from below. We used Rick Steves's Italy guide extensively in planning this leg of our trip, and everything Rick said was true and useful regarding hotels, restaurants, and trails. At left, Vernazza's harbor.
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You know by now that we enjoy good food, which we found plenty of here
Our first night in Vernazza, on Rick Steves's recommendation, we went to Ristorante Incadase da Piva for seafood. Our appetizer at left, fresh anchovies with lemon, was delicious. Our seafood risotto for two, right, came to the table bubbling hot. In it: mussels, shrimp, rice, tomatoes and oh-so-subtle herbs.
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We walked from Riomaggiore to Manarola, but a landslide prevented us from walking to Corniglia. So we caught the train to Monterosso and walked back to Vernazza on the toughest trail. Wow. That leg of the walk alone was more than two hours of incredibly steep steps and incredible views. At left is the trail marker you watch for, though it's nearly impossible to get lost. Below, pictures shot along the trail.
We missed our animals, so we petted every dog and cat we met. When they allowed it. We gave our own critters extra loving when we got home.